Amazing. That’s the only word to describe Gnocco. The world has a funny and serendipitous way of working out, the executive chef of the restaurant’s father was my music teacher growing up. The fact that the food is not much of a shock knowing the stock that he comes from.
Gnocco itself has been very hyped up amongst the foodies in Baltimore, and for good reason the restaurant blends classic Italian dishes with modern flares that yield an amazing end result. Located in Highlandtown which is adjacent to Canton, the exterior of Gnocco is just an assuming corner row home that looks to have been renovated into a full blown restaurant. The decor inside is understated while modern and it doesn’t have any garish flare to scare you off. If you’ve been to Verde which is located nearby you’ll know what I’m talking about, it essentially blends into the rest of the neighborhood. Gnocco has wonderful ambiance , you feel like you’re eating in your friends kitchen.
The menu is simple with antipasti,pasta, and two main dishes. You really can’t go wrong with the menu, I highly recommend the grilled octopus and the chicken liver mousse for your antipasti, the octopus was out of this world, incredibly tender and flavorful it mimicked true Italian seafood cuisine as opposed to the moribund fried to hell octopus/calimari you’ll get at most “American” Italian restaurants. The chicken liver mousse is a Tuscan favorite and Gnocco does well to pay homage to this delicious dish, the smooth silky texture goes perfectly with the toasted crostinis served alongside it.
The pasta is where the kitchen really is able to hit its stride, the squid ink pasta is a must try. You’ll be transported right back to Italy with this authentic dish that has the perfect subtle notes of squid ink in the house-made pasta. Meanwhile the cavatelli served with braised short rib and a horseradish mousse is something that you wouldn’t expect at a typical Italian restaurant and the almost Alsatian vibe of the dish is noticeable but it all works magically.
The main courses are limited but still well executed and deserving of your attention, the half chicken is moist and melts in your mouth. If it was up to me though opt for more of the antipasti and pasta dishes as they are truly exquisite.
Overall, Gnocco is easily one of Baltimore’s top restaurants. It’s affordable prices and cozy atmosphere make it a must visit for all diners.
Loose Notes:
Parking is easy, there is a garage next to the restaurant or you can park for free after 6 in front. I recommend making a reservation as it can fill up because it’s a small restaurant. Bathroom is clean.
